LCD-
Standard warnings and disclaimers apply!
Soldering involves really hot, molten metal; if you’re not careful you could burn yourself, someone else or even light your house on fire. You’ll also be using sharp pointy things, you could poke yourself and bleed to death. Or get a tetanus infection and wished you had bled to death. Remember, this is really dangerous work, be sure to use all the proper safety equipment. So, if you do something stupid, don’t bother having your lawyer contact us; we don’t have any money anyway.
1. Your kit should look like this. If you’re missing parts that’s just too bad. Just kidding, send us an email and we’ll get it straightened out.
2. We recommend installing the piezoelectric buzzer first. (It helps keep things level when installing the LCD.)
3. You should have no trouble finding the “+” sign on the PCB. Ignore it. The piezo-
4. Just fit the buzzer flush and carefully solder it in. Then clip the leads.
5. Soldering on the LCD isn’t hard but soldering it on straight and level can be a bit tricky. Take your time.
6. Peel off the backing from the two little pieces of foam and install as shown. Don’t panic. The exact orientation/position isn’t critical.
7. Now carefully lineup the LCD’s pins with the holes and turn the entire assembly over. If you press down carefully the PCB will rest on the two buttons and the beeper. (You’ll feel the ‘click’ as the buttons compress.)
Make sure that ALL the pins protrude evenly through the board just far enough to solder.
READ THIS BEFORE PROCEEDING!
TACK DOWN JUST THE TWO END PINS.
8. Now turn over the assembly and make sure that the display is even and level. You can still adjust things by CAREFULLY heating one of the pins you just tacked down. When you’re satisfied with the alignment, solder the rest of the pins. Oh, and go back and touch up the two end pins.
9. Now cut the header strips to length. Remember, they go on the backside NOT the top!
Also, don’t count the RESET or AREF test points as part of the header strip!
You can add a Tri-
